It has been said a man needs no more ornaments than a watch and wedding ring. Perhaps that's because the idea of men wearing jewelry can evoke images of gold chains framed by a barely buttoned shirt. But there are many degrees of decoration between a strict limit of watch and wedding ring -- with the occasional cuff links, of course -- and the stuff of 'Saturday Night Fever.'

　　有人說(shuō)，除了手表和婚戒，男人什么裝飾品都不需要。也許這是因?yàn)樘岬侥腥舜魇罪棧蜁?huì)讓人想到幾乎不扣扣子的襯衫搭配金鏈子的畫(huà)面。但在手表和婚戒的嚴(yán)格限制――當(dāng)然偶爾還會(huì)有袖扣――和《周末夜狂熱》(Saturday Night Fever)的那種肆無(wú)忌憚之間，還是有很多不同程度的配飾選擇的。

　　A few old-school accent pieces have started to make their way back into the gentleman's wardrobe -- the signet ring, the tie clip and the lapel pin -- thanks, in part, to the influence that the '50s have been wielding on menswear runways.

　　幾款老式的配飾開(kāi)始返回男士們的衣櫥――圖章戒指、領(lǐng)帶夾和領(lǐng)針――五十年代對(duì)男裝時(shí)裝秀一直以來(lái)的影響功不可沒(méi)。

　　But how to wear all this hardware? 'There are a million ways to get it wrong and only a few to get it right,' said Tyler Thoreson, vice president of men's editorial and creative at Gilt Groupe. 'That's part of the fun -- it's a little tricky, and more rewarding to pull off in a sophisticated way.'

　　但是這些東西該如何佩戴?Gilt Groupe負(fù)責(zé)男裝編輯和設(shè)計(jì)的副總裁泰勒?托雷森(Tyler Thoreson)說(shuō)：“會(huì)有無(wú)數(shù)種方式搭配錯(cuò)，搭配正確只有幾種方式。這就是樂(lè)趣所在――要搭配出精致品味有點(diǎn)難，但是做到以后又很有成就感。”

　　As a general rule, it's wise to err on the side of understatement. Employing a tie clip? Skip the lapel pin. Considering multiple rings? Leave that look to the likes of Johnny Depp.

　　一般來(lái)說(shuō)，保守一點(diǎn)是比較明智的。想用領(lǐng)帶夾?那就不要領(lǐng)針了。想戴好幾枚戒指?還是把這種裝扮留給強(qiáng)尼?戴普(Johnny Depp)那種人吧。

　　With bracelets, too, less can be more. Let the Zoolanders flaunt coils of rope and leather that creep up their forearms. For laymen, one does the trick. Robert Bryan, author of the book 'American Fashion Menswear,' is a proponent of the classic chain link ID bracelet. With men's jewelry, generally, 'silver is the safer choice,' said Mr. Bryan, who also advised caution when it comes to decorative stones. 'They should be small and discreet, lest you be known as the Diamond Jim Brady of the office.'

　　手鐲也是一樣，寧少勿多。讓超級(jí)名模祖蘭德(Zoolander)們手臂上纏著一卷卷繩子和皮革招搖吧。對(duì)普通人來(lái)說(shuō)，一件佩飾足夠。《美國(guó)時(shí)尚男裝》(American Fashion Menswear)一書(shū)作者羅伯特?布萊恩(Robert Bryan)是經(jīng)典ID手鏈的推崇者。布萊恩說(shuō)，對(duì)于男士首飾，一般來(lái)說(shuō)“銀飾是比較保險(xiǎn)的選擇”。他還提醒男士在佩戴石頭首飾時(shí)因該注意：“應(yīng)該小而低調(diào)，以免變成辦公室里的 石吉姆?布拉迪(Diamond Jim Brady)。”

　　It also helps to wear pieces that have a significance beyond sheer aesthetics -- jewelry that has a history or was received as a gift. 'I think for men, the key is that it have meaning,' said Lisa Salzer, who designs women's jewelry for her own label, Lulu Frost, and recently spun off a men's line called George Frost. Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president of menswear at Barneys New York, noted that bracelets are often bought as gifts since, unlike rings, they usually don't need to be sized.

　　佩戴除了純粹美感之外有特殊意義的首飾也不錯(cuò)――比如擁有一段歷史的首飾或者別人饋贈(zèng)的禮物。Lulu Frost創(chuàng)始人、該品牌女士珠寶設(shè)計(jì)師麗莎?薩爾澤(Lisa Salzer)說(shuō)：“我覺(jué)得對(duì)男士來(lái)說(shuō)，關(guān)鍵在于得有意義。”該品牌最近還推出了名為George Frost的男士品牌。紐約巴尼斯精品店(Barneys New York)男裝執(zhí)行副總裁湯姆?卡倫德里安(Tom Kalenderian)指出，人們通常會(huì)購(gòu)買(mǎi)手鏈作為禮物，因?yàn)楹徒渲覆煌宙湹某叽鐭o(wú)所謂。

　　Casual wrist-wear -- beads and bracelets made of worn leather and nautical-style rope, like those popularized by American brand Miansai -- suggests a life of adventure, imagined or not. However, more sophisticated pieces can carry a compelling back story, too. Jewelry designer Monique Pean, who recently launched a men's line, uses materials with notable past lives. Ms. Pean's tie clip is made of 18-karat recycled white gold, and ivory from a wooly mammoth sourced from the Arctic Circle, as well as onyx. 'Men gravitate toward fossils,' she noted.

　　休閑腕飾――用舊皮革以及航海風(fēng)格的麻繩做成的手串和手鐲，就像美國(guó)品牌Miansai推廣開(kāi)來(lái)的那些――意味著一種冒險(xiǎn)的生活，無(wú)論是想像還是現(xiàn)實(shí)。然而，更精致的首飾也會(huì)傳達(dá)引人入勝的背后故事。最近推出一個(gè)男士珠寶品牌的珠寶設(shè)計(jì)師莫妮克?佩昂(Monique Pean)采用的是有著豐富歷史的老材料。她的領(lǐng)帶夾是用18克拉回收白金、北極圈長(zhǎng)毛猛?象象牙以及縞瑪瑙做成的。她說(shuō)：“男人會(huì)被化石所吸引。”

　　Her distinctive clip brings a layer of intrigue to what can otherwise be a pragmatic accent. (The tie clip -- also known as tie bar or tie clasp -- does serve a function, unlike other pieces of jewelry: It keeps your tie straight, out of your face on a windy day and off of your plate.)

　　她這枚獨(dú)具特色的領(lǐng)帶夾讓一件原本實(shí)用的首飾平添了一重神秘色彩。(這枚領(lǐng)帶夾確實(shí)有實(shí)用功能，這跟其他首飾不同：它會(huì)讓你的領(lǐng)帶保持筆直，刮風(fēng)天不會(huì)吹到臉上，吃飯時(shí)不會(huì)掉到盤(pán)子里。)

　　The clip should be narrower than the tie on which it's worn, said Mr. Thoreson. The correct placement is between the third and fourth shirt buttons. It should also be perfectly horizontal, though Mr. Bryan suggested that daring men might try the downward-tilted 'rakish angle' that flourished in the 1930s.

　　托雷森說(shuō)，領(lǐng)帶夾應(yīng)該比領(lǐng)帶窄。正確的位置是襯衫第三顆和第四顆扣子之間。還應(yīng)該與領(lǐng)帶垂直，不過(guò)布萊恩表示，大膽的男士可以嘗試1930年代流行的略向下傾斜的“狂放不羈的角度”。

　　Hogan Gidley, a Republican consultant based in Columbia, S.C., and Washington, D.C., wears a sterling-silver tie clip from Tiffany's that's engraved with his initials. 'I might be an outlier in the party for wearing a tie clip, but I have seen more Republican pundits on TV starting to dabble in [them],' he said.

　　南卡羅來(lái)納州哥倫比亞(Columbia)及華盛頓特區(qū)共和黨顧問(wèn)霍根?吉德利(Hogan Gidley)戴了一枚來(lái)自蒂芙尼(Tiffany)的純銀領(lǐng)帶夾，上面刻著他名字的首字母。他說(shuō)：“在派隊(duì)上佩戴領(lǐng)帶夾，我可能顯得不入流，但我看到越來(lái)越多的共和黨權(quán)威人士開(kāi)始在電視上戴這種東西。”

　　Known in political circles for being a dapper dresser, Mr. Gidley also sports a signet ring; it's engraved with a family crest that, he said, dates back hundreds of years. Signet rings are more prevalent in the South, he noted, and can also bear the crest or seal of the wearer's alma mater.

　　吉德利講究穿戴在政治圈中是出了名的，他還戴著一枚圖章戒指。他說(shuō)，這枚戒指印著一個(gè)擁有數(shù)百年歷史的家族徽章。他說(shuō)，圖章戒指在南方更流行，還可以印母校的徽章或印章。

　　The signet ring is an age-old emblem of aristocratic belonging, yet designer brands are reworking the look, if not also the underlying message, into fashion accessories. See: Eddie Borgo (inlaid rubber), Bottega Veneta (a crosshatch motif that mimics the brand's signature woven leather) and Ms. Pean (fossilized walrus ivory). One savvy tactic is to wear the ring up against a wedding band, thereby confining digital decoration to a single finger.

　　這枚圖章戒指是一個(gè)屬于貴族的古老徽章，不過(guò)各大設(shè)計(jì)師品牌把它改造成了時(shí)尚配飾，或許它所隱含的信息也被改變了。埃迪?波爾格(Eddie Borgo)(內(nèi)嵌橡膠)、寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)(模仿該品牌標(biāo)志性編織皮革的交叉陰影圖案)、還有佩昂(化石海象象牙)都是很好的例子。一個(gè)精明的策略是和結(jié)婚戒指戴在一起，這樣就可以把裝飾限制在一根手指上。

　　Another badge that has become more of a style statement is the lapel pin. In the form of an American flag, it is de rigueur among politicians. But luxury labels have embraced pins as well. Several years ago, Italian brand Isaia created a mini-craze for the coral-shaped lapel pins that come with its jackets. And fashion houses that once tacked lapel pins onto suits as a bit of runway-only styling are now selling the accessories in stores. This spring, Louis Vuitton is offering pins shaped like pretzels and marijuana roach clips while Saint Laurent is selling one that looks like a surfer shooting the curl.

　　另一種越來(lái)越像是時(shí)尚宣言的徽章是領(lǐng)針。美國(guó)國(guó)旗形式的領(lǐng)針已經(jīng)成為政客們的社交禮儀必備品了。但奢侈品牌也將領(lǐng)針納入了時(shí)尚界。幾年前，意大利品牌Isaia外套上的珊瑚形領(lǐng)針掀起了一陣小小的熱潮。曾經(jīng)把領(lǐng)針作為時(shí)裝秀造型和西裝搭配的時(shí)裝品牌現(xiàn)在開(kāi)始在店里銷(xiāo)售這些配飾了。今年春季，路易威登(Louis Vuitton)推出了形如椒鹽脆餅(pretzels)和大麻香煙煙嘴的領(lǐng)針，而Saint Laurent推出了一款形似沖浪手踩著浪花的領(lǐng)針。

　　Lapel pins can add a hint of personality in more buttoned-up work environments. 'A lot of guys in my line of work don't want to draw attention to themselves. They'd rather just wear the uniform,' said Chris Schumacher, a 37-year-old Manhattan financier. He wasn't speaking for himself -- he's partial to nautical rope bracelets, and wears an enamel fox-hunting pin on his overcoat. He added, 'It's nice to see people getting away from just the watch and ring.'

　　在比較嚴(yán)肅的工作環(huán)境中，領(lǐng)針會(huì)給人增添一絲個(gè)性。曼哈頓37歲的金融家克里斯?舒馬克(Chris Schumacher)說(shuō)：“在我們這行，很多人都不想吸引別人的注意力。他們寧愿只穿制服。”他并不是在為自己辯護(hù)――他偏愛(ài)航海風(fēng)格的麻繩手鏈，大衣上戴著一枚琺瑯獵狐領(lǐng)針。他說(shuō)：“很高興看到人們開(kāi)始擺脫單調(diào)的手表和戒指了。”

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